of the Lazy Literatus

The Passing of a Tea Shaman

In 2009, I met an extraordinary man. A legend, really.


He had just opened his newest operation, Steven Smith Teamaker – aptly named after himself. He had reason for such bravado, having co-founded two of the largest tea companies ever. Stash Tea Company and Tazo (pre-Starbucks) were his brainchildren. The man had earned his stripes. And with Smith Tea, he hoped to bring the simple touch of small batch blending back to the forefront.

And – hoo-boy – did he?!

With his wife, Kim DeMent, and a dedicated team, Smith became a recognizable and reliable brand for quality. Much like the man himself. When I first met him, he presided over a tea tasting when I brought friends to the new brick-‘n-mortar Smith HQ. He was humble, humorous, and had the best head of hair of any teaman I’d met, yet.

At the time, my tea discovery was still in its infancy. But as my knowledge grew, I found myself returning to the shop time and again. On a few occasions, as I sat there minding my own business, nursing a pot, he would find time to sit with me and talk. He even let me in on some of the secrets a-brewin’ in their Wonka-esque workshop.

smith hq

A particular favorite of mine was their range of barrel-aged teas. I was one of the first to sample their Methode Noir – a pinot barrel-aged black – as well as one of the first purchasers of their bourbon Assam. Naturally, I wrote about both.

If it wasn’t for him, I don’t think my odd and tangential tea journey would’ve progressed the way it did. I don’t think he was fully aware of this, but he was the reason I started honing my research regarding tea estates and gardens.

I guess one could say if it weren’t for him, his shop, the tea philosophy he cultivated, Steep Stories wouldn’t be what it is today. To date, I think I’ve done more blogs on Smith Tea than I have any other outfit. And there’s a reason for that. Or at least, there was.

On Monday, March 23rd, 2015, Steve Smith succumbed to liver cancer. I found the news out secondhand through a former employee of the company. Naturally, I was shocked. Mouth agape-type shocked, even. My gut reaction, though, was to brew something – anything. Then it occurred to me . . .

I still had some rum barrel-aged white tea Team Smith had produced.


Months back, I negotiated my way to a sample of the stuff, but I never dipped into it. What better time than this? I broke out the Bai Mu Dan leaves, and gave ‘em a good whiff. The aroma was sweet, slightly forest-like, and possessing an undercurrent of – well – rum. Six months of aging will do that to a tea.

The liquor brewed light yellow, giving off a sweet, humble aroma. On sip, it was soft, equally sweet and lingering. Probably the most poetic of the barrel-aged teas they’d released to date. It was the perfect tea to have as a memory to a modern shaman

Every Tuesday, I do cheesy tea haikus. Steve, this haiku’s for you.


Rest in teas, o’ Peppermint Prince.

Per the Oregonian article on Steve’s passing, his family suggests that those who wish to honor him donate to Mercy Corps’ School Education Retention Program, which aims to help students finish high school in Assam, India.


Russian Green Tea Roulette


A Saturday Evening with Friday Afternoon


  1. Margo Hutchinson

    This is just so sad, I loved going to Smith’s with you, it was a tradition and they are always so nice! Great tea, especially Earl Grey.

  2. What a lovely tribute to an incredibly creative mind. I’m so sad I never had the chance to meet Mr. Smith. It was one of those destinations on my wish list. The world will miss the man who transformed the experience of drinking tea in the United States.

  3. Thank you, this is a very nice way to remember him. I met him once at a cheese and tea pairing and was struck by his thoughtful, quiet manner. He was not what I expected, and I liked that! May his teas live on to honor his memory.

  4. A really nice and fitting tribute.

  5. A beautiful tribute.
    So sorry for the loss.

  6. What a wonderful tribute to a man who I felt honored to live close to Portland just because he was there. I never met him and am sad I never will now, but he left an amazing legacy to all his tea fans.

  7. I never met him, but always felt I knew him through your work. When I saw the news yesterday, I knew it would affect you, and it’s great to see your response was such a perfect post.

  8. This is a beautiful tribute to a man who brought so much to so many.

  9. I heard about this on the radio today. Such a loss for the tea community and Portland at large.

  10. Thanks for the tribute to a good teaman.

  11. Geoff, thank you so much for this lovely post and all the support you’ve given us over the years. Steve very much admired you, your writing, and your deep knowledge of tea. He loved that you would ask him crazy questions like, the exact estate in Kenya an ingredient was grown, a question that would have Steve searching his office for an old map.

    Will we see you at the memorial on Tuesday? It will be at The Sentinel at 3:30 pm.

  12. Margo Hutchinson

    I, of course meant Lord B

  13. Only, just saw this. Wow. Shocking. Thank you for your nice post Geoff. Can’t believe it. So sad, he was too young.

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